A Phoenix Rises From The Ashes
Parmigiano Reggiano Trip April 2017
In May 2012 a disaster struck the Reggia Emilia region. An earthquake rocked through the land, the consequences would be far reaching taking years to re-establish their famous food product, Parmigiano Reggiano.
I was asked to write a piece for the Guardian explaining the effects such a disaster created for the fields and pastures, herds, farmers and cheesemakers. Four years on life and work have come together and, as they say, life goes on.
Our enduring attachment to Parmigiano Reggiano has, on my part at least, been somewhat obsessive. Anyone who knows me understands that I have to get ‘under the skin’ of the product to appreciate where it comes from, who makes it, how it is made, asking question after question. But I am not always sure those working with me understand why I go to lengths to get what I consider a definitive product be it cheese, wine or even salt and pepper.
After the earthquake we had long talks with our cheesemaker assessing how we would continue and what cheeses would be available. He sent me a video from a neighbouring maturing facility and it was a dramatic insight into the almost slow motion toppling of wheel upon wheel smashing to the ground. From the trembling wobble to the fiercer shake before the mayhem of the 38kg wheels flying through the air. He finally called us towards the end of 2016 saying that he was going to join another production unit and close down his small facility. He wasn’t admitting defeat but I could sense he wanted to make more cheese and be more productive. His family was growing up and I can understand he wants to lay the foundations for the children to join him when they are old enough, in the new premises. Now, I thought, this is the time for a visit and to bring back different makers Parmigiano and have a blind tasting back in London.
We are going to have to wait a year before we can begin again with our current cheesemaker, and it was an opportune moment to visit his new facility and also explore the region a bit. Just 2 days and one overnight stay – the way I like to do these trips – full concentration and no diversions!
First flight out to Bologna and we arrived to be greeted by pouring rain that would continue for the whole day. All my notes are on postcards and Marco our Italian purchase manager and I go through the list and decide that we will go to Reggia Emilia first and the following day explore Bologna in the morning and then visit our producer and one other.
All I hear about Parmigiano at the moment is ‘mountain’ cheeses which is not entirely correct. The dairy can be 500metres up a hill to qualify as ‘mountain’ in their eyes. I’ve always said that my favoured cheeses are close to the River Po and low number dairies. I like early months, although ‘mountain’ cheeses are often really good in early summer. The reason I like January to April months is because the cows graze on a specific diet of hay and pasture with farm grown legumes as a supplement. The butterfat is creamier during these months too and the cheeses lend themselves to being aged longer. The feed is so specific from the drying of the grasses to the growing of the legumes and grasses with seeds that you almost feel there is a masonic secrecy to this cheese. One thing is certain as far as I am concerned; I want to work with a cheesemaker who is using milk from local farms, and who oversees all the elements of feed too; and then processes the milk to make enough but not too many cheeses in order that he can pride himself on making the best cheese he possibly can. The Consorzio listed maturing unit is close by where cheeses are stored alongside a few other local cheesemakers and where, these days, robots lift and brush the cheeses day in and day out ensuring the outer crusts are smooth and mould-free. The maturers (Battitori) tap the cheeses after 12 months with a wooden hammer to check the ‘hollow’ sounds which indicate how the ageing is progressing and there are no air bubbles, cracks or holes to alter the profile which could be from a bacterial defect. If there is a clear, hollow ‘ring’ that is correct while a dull, uneven ‘thud’ indicates a defect. The long spiralled ‘screw’ is the instrument used to insert into the cheese to test the texture and taste.
Driving through this region known for its agricultural produce the land is mostly flat until, on the horizon you see the landscape change and the backdrop of mountains are wistful brushstrokes rather than harsh forbidding craggy rockfaces. It always amazes me that the people really don’t know what is going on from one town to the next; they are locked into their own little world and this very Italian mentality is the reason their produce is so unique and special since they are not comparing or competing; they are simply making the best possible product. For instance, we were invited for lunch by the owner of a maturing unit in the Mantova area. The restaurant had the usual suspects on the menu like Tortellini in broth, which I duly ordered. “ah, said our host, now I want you to taste it just how we ‘artisans’ like it”. When my bowl arrived he took the bottle of really wonderful crimson Lambrusco and poured some into the bowl. “now this is what I had at the end of every day when I came home from work starving hungry – my mother said this will revive you!” I have to say it was truly delicious but only in this part of the region you will find the broth served this way.
I came back to London with seven different Parmigiano. One is from our usual producer who gave me the last piece of 36 month to enjoy until we start up with him again next year. All the others we had picked up along the way – from the local covered food market in Bologna where. I chose a particular cheese whose dairy number I seemed to recall, Cheese shops and grocers to another medium sized producer we visited on a recommendation of our Balsamic producer Aceto Pedroni where we had spent a few hours for lunch and a tour of the cellars lined with their small barrels of precious aged vinegars. The highlight of the meal was tasting a 3 year aged Parmigiano Reggiano with their 25 year aged Balsamic; just a few drops of this exquisite essence on the cheese lifted the taste to savoury and sweet heights.
Back in our warehouse the seven cheeses were lined up – for a blind tasting. The boys can’t wait and actually start without me as I was called away to take a phone call. By the time I return, they are discussing, assessing and very animated. “I like No. 1 and 3” …. “No, no. 4 is the best and No. 7” ….”They all taste the same to me” (that was a remark I think supposed to be ironic )
For me it was a tasting task that had many layers. No. 1 ok – pleasant with some acidity. No.2 is drier but may work with a glass of Prosecco or that great Lambrusco I remember from the lunch. No. 3 that’s sweet with a light fruity acidity. No. 4 don’t like at all. No. 5 – bland. No. 6 too grainy. No. 7 that’s probably my favourite.
But I keep going back to No. 3. What is it about that cheese that sparks a memory. I’m given the list No. 3 is Dairy 993 – it’s won all sorts of awards apparently and is a hillside producer. 993, 993 why do I know this number. By the way No. 7 is the producer we work with and who gave me that last piece of 36 month cheese.
I go into my office and search for my first book The Cheese Room (published 2001); flick through the pages to the pictures. And there it is – a picture of me opening “the mighty Parmigiano” No. 993 Toano dairy! Yes it was the cheese I brought in when I started working with Italian cheeses producers in 1995; but then stopped when we had a few problems with getting the particular profile months we wanted. Then I fell in love with the cheese we get now and stayed with that one. How strange but again how magical that my taste buds have memories, as I do believe that all our senses contribute to enjoyment.
It’s good experience for everyone working with cheese to taste through several different producers cheese when it comes to Parmigiano. and see how it changes and evolves and why we might like one more than another. The terroir tells us everything and disperses its goodness in different ways; the seasons give us pastures that change through daylight temperature and weather patterns. If we want to enjoy dairy foods then herds need to be outdoors on pasture that is carefully managed and then they will be happy to yield milk for beautiful cheese.
Copy by Patricia Michelson
